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There are a number of clues you can use to successfully date antique and vintage brooches and pins. This usually begins with looking at things like clasps and hinges, since certain types are known to have been used during specific periods in time. In addition to examining the components and findings, you'll want to look at the overall style, examine for signs of repair, and use a jeweler's loupe to locate any identifying marks present as you're dating jewelry. Use the basics below to help you start learning how to identify and date a number of different types of antique and vintage brooch and pin styles. This is a type of pin used to secure a sash at a lady's hip during the late s when the fad of wearing a sash over the shoulder and across bosom imitating Queen Victoria or around the waist became popular. Most examples have very thick pin stems to allow for penetrating several layers of fabric. Many, but not all, resemble buckles from the front like the example shown here.

The S-hook clasp is a variation on the hook, with a rounded, S shape. Older pieces will show some darkening of the metal, looking more like brass. In the kidney wire was introduced. This was a more sturdy and secure fastener, as the wire was secured with a hook at the bottom of the earring.

Both fish hooks and kidney wire earring backs are still in use today. Post earrings also known as stud earrings were also common at this time and normally the studs were threaded so that the backs of the earrings could be secured with screws.

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Up until the s all earrings were made for pierced ears. In the screw-back earring was invented, allowing women without pierced ears to wear earrings. The earring clip was patented in and by the s became the preferred earring style for women without pierced ears. The clip mechanism has been improved over time and clip earrings are still quite popular today. There are additional attributes that help to identify and date pieces.

Other jewelry parts such as the metal, plating, stones, and bead characteristics can help determine the origin and age of jewelry. These are additional topics that I plan to write about in the future. I hope this article has been helpful to you. Please click the comments link below this article to add your comments.

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Vintage versions of the fashion variety can incorporate glass, varied plastics, and some natural substances such as wood. Drop earring styles have been widely reproduced based on antique examples, so be sure to take materials, construction techniques, and signs of age into consideration when dating them. Jay B. Siegel / Warman's Costume Jewelry. This type of simple "C" clasp or catch can be found on brooches dating primarily to the s although some carryover designs in the early s incorporate this finding as well. Sep 20,   Vintage jewelry hardware refers to the various types of clasps, pins, earring backs, rings, and other elements used to create jewelry. These are also called "findings." Techniques and elements have evolved over time, so knowing the types of hardware used during various eras will help you to properly date your vintage and antique jewelry.

Christine, I was impressed with the information you provided. It is simaler to an oval shape. Split at top section of oval. The strange part is one side front hook is straight. The back half of clasp, how I see a tpye of safety latch. Anyway I would like to know and learn more about jewelry. You have peaked my interest more than before reading your article.

I sometimes ramble and get lost in the thinking of it. Anyway these earring clasps are different. The back piece has an opening for the front piece to go in thus securing it better. I was wonder wher I could find pictures of all different styles.

Thank you for letting me ramble on, too. Very interesting. This is such great information. Thank you for taking the time to write it.

Dating vintage rings

I am bookmarking it for future reference. Very informative and loaded with tons of valuable information for future use! Thank you so much for leading the path for some of us who are learning!

Do you know of somebody who repairs Italian micro-bead jewelry?

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It is one of the very few things she had left that he gave her, so I would like to have it restored. Can you direct me to anybody who might have the resources missing beads and one missing pin to restore it?

Thank you. Sorry, Jean.

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You might want to try Etsy - there are a lot of craft people there who work with jewelry. Recently purchased a Czech necklace and did not know it came from a smokers home. How do you clean the smell? Joanne, you might try putting the necklace in a plastic bag with a slice of bread - the bread should absorb the odor. Belonged to New York lady. No markings but brass. One is a bear claw with mink inside middle with pearl inset. Your information is very good for me as a beginner in her sixties.

Such beautiful designs. Thank you again Christine for sharing your well researched useful information with us. I find it very helpful that you also show photos along with the information, making it much easier to learn about the different jewelry styles and eras. Much appreciated. A Wealth of Information I am anxious to start using. The Photos Really do Help with Identifying. Thank You for all Your Research Efforts. Thank you for your kind comments, Tammie.

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I thought your article was very informative. It was interesting to learn about all the different closures, and I will try to keep that in mind next time I go antique shopping. However I was hoping to learn about unique closures. Christina, I too have a bracelet with a heart and rod closure.

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It large pale gold pearls and i purchased it from China close to 10 years ago. Hope this helps!

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I started collecting bracelets that had these kind of closures, but did not know why. I guess, my guesses have been paying off for me, if I ever sell the collection, that isoh, and something is only worth what some one else is willing to pay for it.

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In the crest CM and bottom HR. Any idea or a good reference to further research? Thank u! How have I not found your blog before. So far I am loving it. Wish I could stay longer buy I have to go for now.

Aug 15,   Future articles will discuss other cts of dating vintage jewelry. Vintage jewelry patents provide a wonderful way to research and accurately date older vintage jewelry. I'm also planning an article describing how to date vintage jewelry that isn't marked. I hope you'll come back to read them, or use the form in the upper-right sidebar. Oct 24,   5 Easy Clues for Dating Antique or Vintage Jewelry. Author: karMALZEKE. Karen is an artist, creator, and writer who loves antique jewelry. This article will offer some tips on how to analyze and date antique jewelry. Zoe, CC-BY, via Flickr. Jewelry mirrors time, culture, and societal values. It reflects the taste and attitude of every. Dating antique gold rings. Invite your friends to the item was known to Environmental change affects tree rings from the origins of fine beauty and you by time. Online exclusive brilliant value tips, british hallmark means close to get a renewed interest in .

I promise I will be back. Once I get back to see more, I would like to post a blog reviewing and linking and singing praises to you for a job well done.

I have been in the vintage jewelry collecting, admiring, selling, buying, wearing world for at least ten years. This is put together very well. Very informative! I especially am impressed with the depth of the posts.

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Thank You! Does anyone know a resource for using the engraved patterns on the back of brooches to id the maker?

Can you tell me when the bracelet in the picture for the Wide Bracelet Pin Clasp dates from? My parents bought a silver bracelet for me in an antique shop in a small town in Germany.

It looks super old and I am really wondering when it could be from. Your picture was the only one I have been able to find that looks like the clasp on my bracelet!

I collect and sale antique cameo brooches and pendants. I am always researching clasps and found your blog very informative, thank you so much!

Guide to the Eras of Antique Jewelry

Looking forward to more post! I have a ring that I cannot place the circa it was made. Do have any information on rings.

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The ring- saw tooth setting, in a collet, red stone-with a R, and the band looks like someone rolled a pattern on it. Also the band looks like one side is gold attached, curled around to the other side of bottom of collet, and attached. There are no hallmarks. It came in a purple paper box.

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I have done some research. I have books on jewelry.

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This type of simple "C" clasp or catch can be found on brooches dating primarily to the s although some carryover designs in the early s incorporate this finding as well. It was used on everything ranging from small Victorian bar pins to large sash pins see above.

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The most common early version of the "C" clasp used prior to the s looks more like a curled wire. Pieces incorporating the earlier style also have a tube-shaped hinge for the pin stem, and sometimes the point of the pin stem will extend beyond the edge of the brooch. Some pieces of inexpensive jewelry made during the s and through the decades since then have used a variation of the "C" clasp that is more square looking than rounded. Be sure to look at the overall style and materials when dating pieces using "C" catches.

A collar pin is a metal fastener that connects the two sides of a shirt collar by passing underneath the tie.

It can take the form of a large safety pin, or be shaped like a bar, either with clasps on either end or two spheres or cubes on either end, that unscrew and pass-through holes in the collar similar to a bar cufflink. This type of pin was developed in the early s as a means of holding the ends of the newly fashionable turn-down collar in place and could be simple or adorned with jewels. They grew increasingly ornamental as opposed to functional as the 20th century wore on.

They were primarily used by men, though when first introduced, women used them as well when wearing collared blouses. It was worn similarly to a brooch, but with a clip mechanism instead of a pin stem to attach it to clothing. The underside of the clip usually contains prongs to hold it securely in place.

Dress clips were made of popular materials of the day including Bakelite like the example shown here and pot metal. Larger versions were sold singly. Smaller examples were often sold in pairs or sometimes as part of a "duette" see below. The more petite clip duos were worn in various ways including at the bottom corners of square necklines.

They can sometimes be confused with shoe clips.

Dec 08,   Many books also include photos of vintage advertisements and catalog pages. For example, in the book Popular Jewelry of the 60's, 70's & 80's by Roseann Ettinger, on page 35, the Florenza design pictured at right appears in a Sears catalog. The Palm Royale brooch and earrings design pictured below was found in a vintage advertisement that appeared in "Charm" magazine in. In our cases you'll find the greatest variety of vintage and antique diamond rings in San Francisco spanning every era. From show-stopping cocktail numbers to distinctive dinner rings, simple solitaires and sparkling bands, our many antique diamond rings . Dating Brooch Fasteners - to One of the best ways to avoid reproductions and fakes is to know and understand how originals are made. Reproductions are rarely made the same as originals due to changes in materials, labor costs and modern production techniques.

The first branded Duettes were designed and manufactured by Coro in in Art Deco styles. These clever mechanisms held two small dress clips in place to make a brooch or could be removed to wear clipped on to a garment either singly or in pairs.

Coro also made Duettes with small double-pronged clips especially during the s, but there was some carryover into the s as with the Coro angel birthstone pieces like the one shown here. Collectors have adopted the generic name "duette" when referencing this type of convertible jewelry. Fur clip is the collector's nickname for what manufacturers referred to as a pin clip when they were newly made. It is a double-pronged mechanism that was widely used in the late s through the s, although there was some lingering use in the s.

As with dress clips, the larger versions of pin clips were usually sold singly. Some smaller pairs of pin clips were also marketed, but they are not as common unless found as part of a duette. The lower ornament, which either clicks or screws into place, is detachable allowing the connecting pin to be slipped through the garment. When fastened, the pin is invisible, so the two ornaments seem to float on the fabric.

These pins were originally used to decorate, or fasten, a dangling ruffle known as a jabot worn by men on the front of shirts and women on the front of dresses dating to the 17th century. This pin style was worn on cloche hats, lapels, shoulders, and even handbags.



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